The Critic Is Just Jealous

New York's top food critic has laid into Gordon Ramsay’s first restaurant in the city.

Frank Bruni, the renowned New York Times writer, visited The London - the celebrity chef's new project in the city.

It was unexciting, he wrote, and said Ramsay used “predictable” ingredients. Bruni attacked a “dearth of inspiration” in some starters and main courses.

The restaurant was opened in the London NYC Hotel in November.

Coming in for particular complaint were the caramelised sea scallops - which were offered “dutiful, forgettable performances”. The veteran reviewer added: “Most ingredients are predictable, most flavours polite, most effects muted."

Bruni did praise some dishes, but he also attacked the design of the restaurant.

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